Sound Lab MODIFICATIONS (You already built it... time to tweak it)Back to "Music From Outer Space" Analog Synth PagesBack to the Sound Lab Mini Synth home page
Sound Lab Mini-Synth AR (Attack - Release) Envelope Generator
Sound Lab Mini-Synth LFO (Low Frequency Oscillator),
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Sound Lab Mini-Synth Intra-VCO Modulation
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To get some cool modulation effects you can modulate VCO-1 with the
output of VCO-2.
This first circuit assumes the patched out version. You need to add a new 100K pot, two switches (SPDT and SPST) and the 100K resistor and 2uF capacitor. This configuration allows you to choose the mod source independent of the wave setting of Osc 2. "Osc 2 Out" is IC6-D pin 14 and "Osc 2 Out Pulse" is the junction of R80 pin 2 and R81 pin 1. (You could also use IC2-A pin 1 for a non-attenuated version of the "Osc 2 Out Pulse" signal).
This circuit assumes the non-patched out version. You need to add a new 100K pot and one switch (SPST) to the front panel and the 100K resistor and 2uF capacitor. I recommend you solder the resistor and cap to the switch and pot terminals and then run wires to the PC board as needed. This configuration causes the mod source to be controlled by the wave setting of Osc 2.
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| Add these extra pots in order to allow fine tuning of the oscillators. |
Sound Lab Mini-Synth VCO V/Oct Scale Adjustment Modification
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As soon as people starting talking about using the Sound Lab Mini-Synth as a voice module
I started thinking... Oh Oh I did not put the volts per octave scaling adjustment into the
unit. Actually this was not an oversight. The intent behind the Sound Lab was to make sounds
and it does that excellently but in order to be used for music you need to be able to scale the
oscillators. So... here you go.
In order to do this modification you need to clip the base leads of Q1 and Q2 as close to the circuit board as possible so that you have as much of the base lead of each transistor to solder a wire to. Fold the leads up. Don't bend and rebend the transistor leads very many times or they will break and you will need two new 2N3904s. I soldered the two 100 ohm trimmers and the two 475 ohm resistors onto the kludge area of the board and ran wires to other circuit points. Remember that the wiper of each trimmer goes to the respective base of its corresponding transistor and the connection to each trimmer resistive element goes to the respective output of the corresponding op-amp. Be careful soldering the wires directly to the bases of the transistors. Solder the wire going to the output of the op-amp to the respective feedback resistors (R60 and R61) on the side that connects to the output of the op-amp (pin 7 of IC5-B and IC6-B). Connect the external control voltage to a 1V/Octave keyboard and play C at several octaves. Adjust each oscillator separately by turning down the volume of the oscillator not under test. Adjust the appropriate trim pot until the pitch corresponds correctly to the key you are playing. When you play the octaves or a scale you will notice that the scale will go flat or sharp at first but then as you adjust the oscillator's scale trimmer you will be able to bring the scale into tune. If you want temperature compensation too you will need to use 2K tempcos for R60 and R61. Mount the one for R60 in physical contact with Q1 and Q3 using some epoxy or heat sink compound. Mount the one for R61 in contact with Q2 and Q4 in the same manner. The intent is to keep the thermistor and the transistors at the same temperature. Since the oscillators have a wide range you can reduce the value of the C8 and C9 integrating caps (for example to .002uF) and the oscillators will track over a wider range. You could try the Precision Resistor company in Florida.
To obtain the most accuracy of scaling of the oscillators for control via Ext CV1 and Ext CV2
do as many of the following mods as possible:
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As you can see from this drawing you can mount the 100 ohm trimmers in the kludge area like this. Mount the 475 ohm resistors vertically as shown. One of the leads of the 475 ohm is soldered to trimmer lead 3 and the other lead is soldered to ground (the PC land toward the bottom of the figure). Notice that the green color is used to show which circuit points get connected together. You solder wires to the leads of the trimmer and run them to the circuit points shown in the drawing and in the modification schematic.